It's kinda dirty in places ( smells of pee too) with a lot of smacked out looking stray dogs and winos. But it is also bohemian ( a favourite term here) and has a lot of character, especially in the hillside barrios. We stayed on Cerro Concepion, the nicest of these Barrios. You access them using funicular railways., literally like lifts built into the side of the hills. The buildings are all colourful and cling to the sides of the hills like artsy favelas.
There isn't a lot to do in Valpo. You just wander about and look at the crazy graffiti and sit in cafes, and drink Chilean wine, so it can't be all bad!........
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