The theme tune from the adverts on BBC World had knawed deep into our heads, so we were constantly singing Incredible India to each other as we boarded the plane to Delhi. One year in, practically to the day, we were on the last leg of our trip and nervous about what lay ahead. We really wanted to like it and be interested in it after our feelings of mild indifference about SE Asia. Yes, the photo below is completely staged.
Getting out in Delhi after the flight was a bit of a shock. It is going to sound really silly but the biggest thing I felt (Nic) was that everyone was Indian! So off we went in our little taxi just about making it to the hotel without a crash on route. It seems that the Indians think this is a perfectly acceptable way to drive. It's going to take some getting used to as it is extreme even by South American and SE Asian standards. Pahar Ganj, our area of choice was not a great place to turn up at 11pm. It stank, there was rubbish and roaming cows everywhere and my fear of rats was at it's peak as we walked through a grotty alleyway to our equally grotty hotel. At ten quid a night we were not best pleased. So a sleepless night for Nic wondering what tomorrow would be like. 
The 1st day was actually not too much of a shock for us. In fact we walked around confident we were not going to feel any culture shock at all. What were all these idiots going on about when they talked about how full on it is, how dirty it is and how you get stopped in the street for money, photos and general pestering all the time. We just got totally immersed in the crazy streets and the smiling faces and strolling around taking it all in. It seemed there was always something to look at. It certainly was a complete assault on our senses but in a good way. 
However, the second day was the eye opener. This was spent in old Delhi, visiting Jama Masjid, the biggest mosque in India. Followed by the Red Fort and Chandi Chowk. It is bonkers to say the absolute least. Some good, some bad. The mosque was calm. No entry fee, just a fee of 300 Rs to use a camera! This is forming a pattern here in India each time we visit a holy place. I am sure God in all his forms would wholey approve! A bit of staring from the locals in a curious but very friendly way. The Red Fort was our 1st incidence of the locals wanting a photo with us. It seems the men want a photo with a western woman for the most part and a very funny man put his finger on my shoulder for the photo? Odd. Old lady below demonstrates this obsession they have. We look pretty confused.
Jama Masjid
Great views but check out the smog!
The Red Fort
The rest of this day was spent wandering round Chandi Chowk, which is when it all got a bit too much. The back alleys full of sari shops and chai stalls are great but claustrophobic after a short period of time. In an attempt to escape this we decided to try the Delhi metro to go south which involved walking to Old Delhi Railway station. There were NO women and I have never felt so many pairs of eys boring into me in my entire life. It was the start of what I had been told but did not believe until I saw it and felt it for myself. Not only did I feel kind of violated, certainly intimidated, but Ed felt it was very disrespectful for another man to be like that with me. He struggled to ignore it. Day by day we are getting better at dealing with this but it never stops feeling weird.
Thoroughly exhausted we nearly called it a day. Someone I know said to me once, India is tiring to travel, but when something bad happens to you, something good always happens straight after to make up for it. This sounds really crappy but it is true and today was our 1st experience of this. It was Guru Nanak's Birthday, the founder of the Sikh religion. We went to visit Gurudwara Bangla Sahib (a Gurudwara is a Sikh temple, it literally means door to a Guru) in south Delhi and found ourselves caught up in a huge street party. A bit overwhelmed we stood back and watched until a very friendly man asked us to have chai with him and then gave us a plate of dahl and chapathi. He took us inside and showed us where to leave our shoes, cover our heads and how to wash our face in the holy water of the lake inside. We were totally amazed. He didn't seem to want anything from us, could this really be true??!! Well it was. He took us to visit a guide inside who explained to us that Sikhism does not judge anyone by their chosen religion or caste ( social class you are born into automatically within Hinduism in India) We were welcome to go inside the main shrine, sit down and listen to the music played while people made their pilgrimage. It was an incredible experience and we sat for ages listening to the hypnotic music. We have both fallen in love with all Sikh people. They really are so genuine and who can argue with a religion that preaches equality?!
Ed in silly head gear at Gurudwara Bangla Sahib
This video clip above should convey a little of the atmosphere we felt there.
So, onto a little less serious stuff from our 1st impressions of India.
The 1 and 2 rupee coins have images of fingers to show their worth
Your feet look like this at the end of each day regardless of flip flops or shoes
The food is ace and Ed will NEVER tire of it. Although we were a little nervous here at our 1st street snack or chaat as it is called. Would we get the shits? Well..........more to follow on that
Massive Masala Dosa, all for 40 Rupess ( 70P)
There is colour everywhere, from the bangle shops ( Banglemania as I like to call it and I am seriously regretting not purchasing here as not seen any as good since)
To their washing......
To the sari shops in every back alley.
The police carry massive sticks and like to look menacing with them (admittedly this guy is looking pretty tame but we are too scared to take photos of the menacing ones) Give a man a stick and you are giving him too much power and by God do they like to behave in that way. I would not want to be on the wrong side of any of them. They seem to respond favorably to being called sir, and speaking to them in the Queen's English
BT engineering in the street. Seriously, Ed was in shock at the lack of health and safety
Talk me through this one? Jainism is not a widely practised religion here. This temple seemed to promote nakedness? Hmmmmmmmmm.
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